Versatile and inexpensive, bleach is not just a laundry booster. This clear liquid disinfects hard surfaces, killing bacteria and fungus. Unfortunately, bleach has an unpleasant chemical odor that can last long after you have put the cap back on the bottle. Walls, carpet, clothing and furniture can trap the bleach fumes inside their pores and fibers. Fortunately, a few common products will help remove the bleach odor.

Bleach
Containing sodium and chlorine hydroxide, bleach is a toxic and dangerous chemical that can fill your home with harsh residues and fumes. The strong odor that accompanies bleach can last for days after you have used the chemical and can cause headaches, nausea, fatigue and burning of the eyes, nose and throat. When working with bleach, always ventilate the area by opening doors, windows and turning on fans. This will help keep the air circulating and reduce the amount of bleach fumes.

Washable Items
Adding too much bleach to the washing cycle can leave a strong bleach odor on laundered items. The smell can persist for days after laundering, and cologne or perfume simply mask the chemical odor. Try rewashing the item in cool water with 1/4-cup of laundry detergent. When the washing machine reaches the rinse cycle, add 1 cup of white vinegar. The vinegar removes odors without chemicals. After the washing machine completes a full cycle, remove the items from the washer and put them inside the dryer. Lay one to two dryer sheets on top of the damp items and tumble dry. If the bleach odor remains, soak the items in a bucket of cool water for several hours then rewash.

Non-Washable Items
Since you cannot simply toss non-washable items into the washing machine, you will have to remove the bleach odors by hand. Fortunately, baking soda and vinegar — both natural and safe products — will remove the bleach odor from both hard and soft surfaces. Baking soda sprinkled on carpets and left to sit for several hours will remove bleach odors. This same process also works on upholstery. Another option is pure, undiluted white vinegar. Dampen a cloth in the vinegar and wipe down hard surfaces that smell like bleach. As the vinegar dries on the surface, it will remove the bleach odor.

Considerations
Never mix bleach with ammonia or products that contain ammonia. Combining these two cleaners creates toxic fumes. If you encounter bleach fumes, move to fresh air as soon as possible. If bleach comes in contact with eyes or skin, flush the area with cool water for 15 to 20 minutes. If you experience irritation or difficulty in breathing, contact your primary care physician immediately.

Written by: By Amanda Flanigan

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You may wonder why you would ever consider using a laundromat when you own your own washer and dryer, but there can be some good reasons to. In the article below, we will discuss 4 reasons why you may want to make a trip to our E Julian St., San Jose, CA location.

#1 Volume

It happens quickly enough, where you miss a week of washing and suddenly you are faced with a mountain of laundry. With everyone’s busy and hectic schedules these days, no one wants to dedicate an entire day to doing laundry. In these circumstances, it can be worth taking a trip to the laundromat to save precious time.

At the laundromat, you can wash and dry multiple loads at the same time and be back to enjoying your day in no time.

#2 Bedding

Large items like bedding, comforters, and quilts can sometimes be too big or bulky for home machines. As these items only need to be washed several times per year, it makes sense to make the trip to your local laundromat and use the extra-large washers and dryers. Using larger machines ensures that your large bedding items have space to move around in the machines and get thoroughly cleaned.

#3 Vacations

Coming home from a family vacation can mean multiple suitcases filled with dirty laundry. Best to just sort at home and head to the laundromat. You can get everyone’s vacation clothing washed while you pop into the grocery store and pick up a few items to restock your fridge. If you came back from a tropical destination in the winter, the laundromat is a great place to fold up everyone’s summer wear and pack away in bins once you get home until the right season arrives.

#4 Special Gear

Sometimes special gear, like camping equipment can be difficult to wash and dry. Items like tents or sleeping bags need large, commercial machines to be properly cleaned. As you are packing up to return home from a camping trip, don’t worry about tracking dirt or smelly camping gear into your home, just stop at your local laundromat instead.

Now you know that there are a number of reasons why it can be helpful using a laundromat even when you have your own washer and dryer. Give it a try next time one of the above scenarios come up!

 

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If you are having a hard time to remove laundry stains then try one of these steps below using one of our vinegar techniques.

Tomato Stains
Saturate the tomato stain with vinegar and allow it to soak in. Then, launder as usual. Check to make sure the stain is out ​before you run the clothing through the dryer.

Mildew Stains
If you forgot to move the wash over to the dryer and it smells mildewy or has visible mildew stains, just mix equal parts vinegar and water with some salt, and soak the clothing in the solution. It should lift mildew stains from most fabrics. If you still see signs of staining after soaking, make a solution of undiluted vinegar and salt, and soak it again

Coffee/Tea Stains
To banish coffee or tea stains, soak the stained fabric in 1/3 cup vinegar mixed with 2/3 cup water. Hang the garment outside in the sun to dry, then launder as usual

Mustard Stains
Mustard stains require a bit of persistence. Start by applying undiluted vinegar to the stain and allowing it to soak in. If that doesn’t do it, you may also need to treat the spot with laundry detergent. Just work it into the stain and throw the clothing in the wash, checking to make sure the stain is out before you dry the garment. Repeat the process, if necessary.

Sweat Stains
To banish sweat stains, pour vinegar over the discolored area and rub coarse salt into it. Table salt will work if it’s all you have. Place the garment out in the sun to dry before washing it.

Grass Stains
To lift grass stains, soak the garment in undiluted vinegar for 30 minutes, then launder it. If you can still see signs of the stain after washing, try making a paste of vinegar and baking soda. Use an old toothbrush to coat the stain, then launder it again.

Ink Stains
Defeat stubborn ink stains by spraying the stain with hairspray, then dabbing vinegar on the hairspray to remove it — and the ink. 

Blood Stains 
Fast action is the cure for bloodstains. Pour vinegar over the stain and allow it to soak for 15 minutes before rinsing it with cool water. Repeat if necessary, and wash immediately

Set-in Stains
Saturate set-in stains with vinegar, then rub the spot with a paste made from equal parts vinegar and baking soda. You can add a couple tablespoons each of vinegar and laundry detergent to a bucket of water and soak the garment overnight ​if the stain persists. Then, rinse and wash. 

Crayon Stains
Rub vinegar into the crayon stain with a brush (an old toothbrush works great), then toss the garment in the wash.

Vomit Stains
Rinse the garment in cool water to remove as much of the vomit as possible, then soak the stain in vinegar and wash the garment. Repeat the process, if necessary.

Rust Stains
To remove a rust stain, soak a cotton ball in vinegar and use it to blot the stain. Cover the stain with a thin layer of salt and rub it into the vinegar and the fabric. Lay the garment outside in direct sunlight until the stain has faded, then wash as usual.

Iron Scorch Marks
Accidentally leave the iron on your clothes for too long? Reverse the damage by soaking a cotton ball or rag in vinegar and dabbing at the scorched area. Blot the stain with a clean rag, which should lift the stain. It may take more than one application to remove the scorch mark fully.

 

Source: https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-remove-laundry-stains-with-vinegar-1387973

As parents, there is a never-ending flood of advice, information, and cautions coming at you from all angles. We all want what’s best for our children. But in a sea of mixed information, it’s easy to fall into fear-traps peddled by manufacturing companies.

One of these traps is fire retardant clothing and linens.

The logic behind flame retardant clothing, bed linens, and mattresses makes sense. What parent wouldn’t want to take extra steps to ensure that, in the event of a fire, their child is as well protected as possible?

What Are Flame Retardants?

Flame retardants are chemicals added to or applied to products with the intent of preventing or slowing the start of a fire. Some common chemicals used include the Lhalogenated hydrocarbons chlorine and bromine. They’ve been in use since the 1970s. You usually find them in the following products:

• Children’s clothing, especially pajamas
• Bed linens and mattress covers
• Children’s mattresses
• Car seat covers
• Nursing pillows
• Transportation products, such as the seats and carpeting of automobiles and airplanes
• Building and construction materials, including electrical wires and insulation materials

Are Flame Retardants Safe?

A British study, presented in 2012 at a national meeting of the American Chemical Society, showed that not only do flame retardants present significant health concerns, but some also increase the risk of death in the event of a house fire.

The chemicals used to make flame retardants can increase the danger of invisible toxic gases such as carbon monoxide and hydrogen cyanide, which is the leading cause of death in fires.

Flame Retardants Health Effects on Children and Mothers

A study conducted by Environmental Working Group (EWG) and researchers at Duke University showed evidence of exposure to commonly used flame retardant chemical TDCIPP (Tris(1,3-dichloro-2-propyl)phosphate) in the bodies of all mothers and children tested during the study.

The average concentration of chemical biomarkers in the children was nearly five times higher than the average concentration in the mothers.

The higher concentration, it is speculated, may be due to greater susceptibility in children, or may be due to the fact that children are simply more consistently exposed. Placing hands, toys, and clothing into their mouths and crawling on the floor increases their contact with the chemicals.

Regardless of the causes at play, this research clearly demonstrated that the flame retardant chemicals are absorbed into the bodies of our most vulnerable — mothers and children.

Flame Retardant Side Effects

The National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences cites a growing body of evidence that many flame retardant chemicals are linked to adverse health effects in both animals and humans. These include:

• Endocrine and thyroid disruption
• Damaged immune system
• Reproductive toxicity
• Cancer
• Adverse effects on fetal and child development
• Reduced neurologic function
• Infertility
• Kidney and liver damage

During a fire, the chemicals and combustion byproducts result in toxic smoke clouds. These invisible gases pose serious health risks for firefighters, surrounding homes and families, and the environment.

Firefighter Adam Cosner of Santa Clara Co. Firefighters recently stated in an interview that firefighters are contracting cancer at an alarming rate, and that flame retardant chemicals are part of that problem.

Research on Health Effects of Flame Retardants

• Researchers from the University of California at Berkeley found that an increase in levels of brominated flame retardant compounds in pregnant mother’s blood was linked to drops in the baby’s birth weight.
• The Berkeley study also shows that high levels of brominated flame retardants can alter pregnant women’s thyroid hormone levels, which are critical to a baby’s growth and brain development.
• The study performed by the EWG and Duke University linked Polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDE) replacements, TDCIPP and Firemaster® 550 to hormonal changes and decreased semen quality in men.
  PBDEs have also been found to persist in the environment and are associated with neurodevelopmental issues in children. They also affect the thyroid function of pregnant mothers.

More Hidden Chemicals — Again

If you’ve read our other articles on hidden chemicals, such as this one, you know that manufacturers are able to get away with leaving a lot of information off their labels. Unfortunately, it’s the same with flame retardant chemicals.

While the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) requires the flame retardant chemicals used in children’s clothing to be nontoxic, manufacturers aren’t required to indicate what chemicals are used — if any. So, when shopping for your children, you may be purchasing chemical-coated clothing without even being aware of it.

What to Do With Fire Retardant Clothing and Linens

We’d suggest throwing them out. However, if you’re like many American parents, replacing so many items in a short period of time may not be an option.

So, here’s how to be as safe as possible when it comes to handling and laundering fire retardant materials.

• Outfit your sleepy kids with tight-fitting natural fiber pajamas instead of looser flame-retardant pajamas. Cotton, bamboo, hemp, and linen are all good choices for natural fibers. Tight clothing prevents air from moving between the skin and fabric, making it more difficult for fabrics to ignite.
• Choose organic clothing options when possible. The same goes for bedding! If you can’t afford organic, try to find clothing made from natural fibers instead of synthetic.
• Wash flame retardant garments and linens separately to avoid contaminating other garments. Use the hottest setting safe for the garment. Hot water can make detergents more effective in the removal of soils, which can act as fuel in the event of a fire. Dry on low.
• Choose a natural laundry detergent. Never use products that contain bleach or animal fats as these ingredients are highly flammable. Avoid chemical-laden fabric softeners and dryer sheets.

 

Source: https://www.mollyssuds.com/2018/12/12/flame-retardant-chemicals/

Don’t let that coffee spill leave a lingering stain on your clothes. Here’s the trick to removing a coffee stain for good, using products you likely already have in your laundry room or cleaning closet. If there’s one thing we can’t go without, it’s our morning coffee. But there’s nothing worse than running out the door or just sitting down to read and accidentally sloshing some on your shirt. Unfortunately, coffee can leave a dark, ugly stain—especially on lighter fabrics. Don’t fret! These stain removal tips will help you salvage your clothes from your wayward daily brew.

Method One: Vinegar

Mix the following in a bucket or other large container:

• 1 quart lukewarm water
• 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent
• 1 tablespoon white vinegar

Soak clothing in the solution for 15 minutes, then rinse and hang to dry.

Method Two: Enzyme Presoak

If the stain is gone, you can go ahead and wash the clothes. If your stain is a little more stubborn, use a white sponge to dab rubbing alcohol on the stain, working from the outside to the center. Then mix a batch of:

• 1 quart warm water
• 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product

Place stained clothing in bucket and allow to soak for 30 minutes.

Method Three: Bleach

Again, if you can no longer see the stain, you’re safe to wash the clothing as normal. But if the stain is STILL there, wash it using chlorine or oxygen bleach. Always check the label to make sure the bleach is safe to use on that fabric.

Source: https://www.bhg.com/homekeeping/laundry-linens/stain-removal/how-to-remove-coffee-stains/

Helpful holiday stain removal how-tos for red wine, cranberry sauce and other seasonal delights

Have a spill? Don’t panic — get smart with these helpful holiday stain removal how-tos for red wine, cranberry sauce and other seasonal delights!

In almost every case, the #1 key to dealing with holiday stains is to act quickly, and by using the right method for the problem.

With these tips on how to deal with common Thanksgiving stains, you won’t need to wait until the end of the night or the next day to manage spills and spots.

Here are five quick and easy Thanksgiving stain removal tips from the experts!

PROBLEM 1: GRAVY SPILLED ON YOUR NEW TABLECLOTH.

Solution: When you set the holiday table with your best linens, it’s a natural invitation for spots and stains. Treat the stains with a prewash spray, or pretreat with a product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain remains, re-launder with a fabric-safe bleach.

PROBLEM 2: SOMEONE DIPPED A SLEEVE IN THE SWEET POTATOES.

Solution: Scrape off excess sweet potatoes, then flush under cold running water to loosen the stain. Pre-treat the garment with a pre-wash stain remover. Wash using the warmest temperature water and bleach that is safe for the fabric.

PROBLEM 3: CRANBERRY SAUCE SPILLED ON FABRIC.

Solution: Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use bar soap because it may set the stain (laundry detergent is okay). Removal of old stains may require washing in a fabric-safe bleach.

PROBLEM 4: A MID-PARTY SPOT ON YOUR FAVORITE OUTFIT.

Solution: If the garment is washable, as soon as the party’s over, treat the spot with a stain removal stick. This puts the stain “on hold,” and buys some time until you can tackle the laundry. If the garment is dry-clean-only, take it to the dry cleaner as soon as possible and let them know the cause of the stain.

PROBLEM 5: RED WINE SPILLED ON YOUR SOFA.

Solution: Gently blot up any liquid. Don’t scrub or rub the spot. As soon as possible after the party, use an upholstery cleaner on the spot. Be sure to read and follow the product directions before using.

 

Source: https://www.thanksgiving.com/thanksgiving-living/top-10-thanksgiving-stain-removal-tips

If you?re a smoker or are around people who are, you?ve experienced the smell of cigarette smoke ligering on your clothes long after the butt has been extinguished. Washing smoky clothes over time can even cause a smelly washing machine. Here are a few tricks for removing smoke smell from clothes and using a washing machine cleaner to keep your washer fresh.

Remove Smoke Smell From Clothes
Smoke is particulary hard to remove from clothes because of the tar in the tobacco; the tar causes the smoke to adhere to your clothes more readily than other offensive odors. So to prevent a?smelly washing machine, it?s a good idea to remove as much smoke as possible before washing.

Trick 1: put the smoky clothes in a plastic bag with 2 dryer sheets and 2 tablespoons of baking soda. Secure the bag, and shake. Let the clothes sit overnight, then shake out any remaining baking soda and wash as usual.

Trick 2: add 1 cup of baking soda and 1 cup of white vinegar to your washing machine and allow the smoky clothes to soak for at least an hour. Add detergent and wash as usual. This will also help neutralize your smelly washing machine.

Both baking soda and vinegar have remarkable odor-neutralizing abilities. For clothes that are not washable, hang them outside to air out before dry-cleaning.

Use A Washing Machine Cleaner
If you’ve been washing smoky clothes for any extended period of time, you may have a smelly washing machine. While the tar and smoke may be eliminated from your clothes in a typical wash cycle, the odors can remain and cling to the inside of your washer. The smoky smell is then re-deposited onto your clean clothes, making them come out smelling not-so-fresh.

Using a washing machine cleaner, such as Smelly Washer, effectively removes odors from your washing machine; and the natural ingredients in Smelly Washer are safe and gentle and can be used up to twice a month. A washing machine cleaner is used in your washer’s hottest or clean cycle with no clothes.

Smelly Washer not only removes odors; it also effectively eliminates mildew and fungus that can make your clothes smell musty.

Freshen Up In Between Washes
In between washes, there are a few simple tricks to minimize smoke clinging to your clothes. Whether you are a smoker, or are standing near someone who is smoking, stand upwind so the smoke blows away from you.

You can also use an odor-eliminating fabric spray on your clothes. Certain fabric sprays are designed to actually remove odors, not just cover them up with flowery smells. And if you don’t plan to wash smoky clothes right away, instead of throwing them in the hamper, try hanging them up instead.

 

Source: https://smellywasher.com/tips-for-removing-smoke-smells-from-clothes/

Whites are the hardest color to keep looking bright and new after just a few months’ time. Your sweat and oils quickly become stains, and colors from other clothes will eventually bleed into the fabric, discoloring your bright whites into something merely whitish. But before you reach for the bleach, the ultimate chemical cleaner, try some a few of these safer, less-toxic DIY solutions out instead.

Use a Citrus Soak
Instead of sending your white laundry into the washer to get clean, whiten your yellowed items with a citrus soak. Martha Stewart recommends boiling your whites with lemons, turning up the heat until the water bubbles and then letting them soak for about an hour. You can also add lemon juice to your regular wash cycle and achieve similar results.

Brighten with the Power of the Sun
Once your whites are freshly washed and wet, skip the dryer cycle. Instead of making them suffer through a super high heat, lay them out in the sun to naturally whiten them. According to Keeper of the Home, the sun will bleach your clothing without the smell and danger of bleach. If you’ve ever left something out in the sun for a long period of time, you know just how whitening its rays can be.

Add White Vinegar
Get your whites white once again by adding a dose of white vinegar during the wash cycle. White vinegar even softens fabric, bringing brightness and comfort back to your clothes.

Create a Baking Soda Soak
With a homemade mixture of water and baking soda, you can whiten your whites without any additives in your washing machine. Combine four liters of water with one cup of baking soda, and drop in your white laundry. Let it soak, and your clothes will be fresh and clean once finished.

Try Dishwasher Soap
A secret whitening tool is hiding in your kitchen: dishwasher soap. According to Apartment Therapy, eco-friendly dishwasher detergent works to whiten whites as well as other DIY methods. Simply blend a bit in with your regular laundry detergent, and run your whites through their regular wash cycle.

Break Out the Aspirin
Aspirin, a great aid for headaches and all other aches, breaks down the gunk that’s yellowed your whites. Dissolve five white aspirin pills in water, and add your clothes to the mix. Let them soak a while, and then toss them into your washer. Be sure to stay away from the colored varieties of aspirin, though, or your whites could come out with a colorful tinge.

Add in a Bit of Blue
Though it might sound counterintuitive, Grandparents.com suggests that adding blue coloring to your white laundry can counteract the yellow stains that this color tends to attract. Look for a bluing agent at your local grocery store, and carefully follow the directions on the bottle. The original source warns that it’s a bad idea to directly pour the agent on your clothes or add it to your detergent because you might end up with dyed blue clothing.

Try Whitening with Borax
A little bit of borax can work to increase the effectiveness of your usual laundry detergent, making it more effective at restoring cleanliness and color. It’s also an addition that removes residue from stains and also softens the water.

Skip the Detergent
With each load of laundry and each trip through the wash, your whites become laden with detergent and residue from dryer sheets—and these additions to your once-bright clothes can create that yellow tint. Good Housekeeping suggests sending your whites through a simple, detergent-free cycle with a small amount of ammonia to eliminate all accumulated residue.

Brighten with Hydrogen Peroxide
A common item in medicine cabinets, hydrogen peroxide can breathe new life into your dulled whites. According to PopSugar, it’s an oxidizer that dissolves residue and brightens whites in a manner similar to common store-bought whitening agents.

 

Source: https://housekeeping.wonderhowto.com/how-to/10-ways-whiten-clothes-without-using-any-bleach-0162473/

Going to a laundromat or a public laundry room in your apartment complex or dorm is no one’s favorite activity. However, there are ways to make the laundry trips quicker, easier, and even less costly. Learn the top six tips to save you time, money, and get the best results for your laundry efforts.

Save Time: Sort Your Laundry at Home

If you sort your laundry at home, you’ll save time and have more work space than at the laundromat. You’ll arrive at the laundromat feeling more organized and can immediately grab machines and get the loads underway.

Use pillowcases or different colored laundry bags for the sorted white and dark clothes for each load.

Another way to save time; have plenty of the correct change. Change machines are often broken and your fellow users may not have change to share. Prepare before you go!

Save Money: Take Your Own Detergent

The single-use detergent packs sold at laundromats cost more than double what you pay per load for products brought from home so take your own detergent and other products with you.

While large containers of detergent are often the most cost effective, there is no need to haul large containers on each trip to the laundry room. If you prefer a powdered detergent formula, scoop the correct amount for each load into small plastic sealed bags. Liquid detergents or fabric softeners can go in a small plastic container with a tight lid.

Or, you can opt for single load detergents and fabric softeners. They are more expensive per load but the convenience is unmatched. You’ll save money by bringing them from home rather than purchasing at the laundromat.

What’s the best detergent for the laundromat? Only you can determine the best detergent for your household.

Save Your Clothes: Check the Washer and Dryer Before Using

Before you set clothes on top of the washer or dryer make sure the surface is clean. At best, you’ll get sticky detergent residue. At worst, you’ll find chlorine bleach that will permanently ruin your clothes.

Always keep an old rag or towel handy and give the washer or folding table a quick wipe down. Always check any automatic bleach dispensers to make sure they are empty and dry. If not, use a paper towel to soak up any leftover bleach.

If the appliance is stained or dirty or not working correctly, be a good Samaritan and clean it up or at least report the problem to the manager.

Look inside appliances, too. You never know what the last person left in the washer or dryer. Not everyone is considerate. You may find a tube of lipstick that was left in a pocket and then it gets left in the dryer or washer. It’s worth a few extra seconds to check before you have to deal with the aftermath.

Or, you may find leftover clothing. Just one red sock can turn an entire load of clothes pink. Remove the clothing and leave it in the laundromat’s lost and found bin.

One last tip, look at the settings on the machine before you hit start. The last thing you need is a load of delicate lingerie traveling through hot water and the heavy duty cycle that the last person used.

Save Money: Use the Dryers Wisely

Before you start the dryer make sure the lint trap is clean. You’ll prevent fires and your clothes will dry faster, saving you money. Find a warm dryer because starting with a dryer that is already warm will get those clothes done more quickly.

As you load the clothes into the dryer, fluff each piece of clothing by giving it a quick shake. The clothes will dry more quickly and with fewer wrinkles. Be sure you get everything in the dryer before you start it up. Opening and closing the door loses heat and time.

Now that you’ve spent all that money and time getting those clothes dry, be sure they arrive home that way. Keep a large black plastic bag with your laundry supplies just in case you encounter rain on the way home.

Save Your Sanity: Use Smart Phone Laundry Apps

Smartphone and other mobile devices laundry applications can help you find a laundromat, translate care labels, and treat stains with helpful tips. Laundromats are the perfect place to put them to use.

One must-have app is a laundry timer so you can run errands or concentrate on something else while your clothes are washing. The app gets you back to the washer when the cycle ends, preventing the disasters of someone else dumping your wet or freshly dried clothes on the floor.

Save The Environment: Go Green

If you want to reduce your carbon footprint at the laundromat, opt for a front loading washer instead of a top loader because it uses 50 percent less water. Always wash a full load (you’ll save money that way, too) and choose a bio-based laundry detergent and use cold water as much as possible.

Skip the laundromat dryers and take your clothes home to air dry. If you do use the dryers, fold or hang clothes as soon as they come out of the dryer to reduce wrinkling and to skip ironing

 

 

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Here are smart ways to deal with common laundry problems such as grayness and yellowing, fading and shrinking, and pilling. Even better, you can avoid them altogether by taking these preventive measures.

We’ve all done it. We’ve rushed through a load of laundry to get to other urgent items on our to-do list or to something we enjoy more. And we end up with clothes that are discolored, faded, or shrunk. Many of problems can be avoided by following these basic guidelines:

Properly sort the laundry. Divide by texture (materials that produce lint and those that attract it), fabric (clothing items of similar fabric go together), level of soiling (separate heavily soiled from lightly soiled), and color (whites, lights, darks, items that bleed color). Click here for a fabric care guide.
Always follow product instructions regarding the correct amount of detergent for the type of laundry load you’re doing.
Use the most appropriate water temperature for the fabric you’re washing.
After the fact and when attempting to avoid common laundry issues, take these steps.

Dealing With Overall Grayness

Overall laundry grayness is caused by an insufficient amount of detergent, low water temperatures, or incorrect sorting. To reduce grayness, increase the amount of detergent, use a detergent booster or bleach, or increase the wash temperature.

Before beginning a load, however, sort heavily soiled items from lightly soiled items, and carefully sort by color to prevent grayness.

Dealing With Uneven Grayness

Uneven laundry grayness is caused by an insufficient amount of detergent, the water temperature being set too low, or improper sorting. Sort garments by color, and rewash with an increased amount of detergent, using the hottest water safe for the fabric.

To prevent uneven laundry grayness, use a sufficient amount of detergent and wash in the hottest water safe for the fabric.

Dealing With Yellowing

Yellowing is likely caused by a buildup of body soil. Increase the amount of detergent in your wash load, or use a product with a detergent booster or fabric-safe bleach. If you like, try both methods at once.

To prevent yellowing, always use a sufficient amount of detergent.

Dealing With Blue Stains

Detergent or fabric softener that doesn’t dissolve or disperse might cause blue stains. If detergent is causing the problem, immerse the garment in a solution of 1 cup white vinegar to 1 quart water. Soak for one hour, then rinse and launder. If fabric softener created the stains, rub the stains with a bar soap, then rinse and launder.

To prevent stains, add detergent and turn on the washer before adding laundry. Dilute any fabric softener with water before adding it to a wash or rinse cycle or to the dispenser.

Dealing With Powder Residue

Powder residue is usually caused by undissolved detergent. Run the laundry through an additional rinse cycle to remove the residue. Avoid the problem by always adding the detergent before turning on the washer and adding the laundry.

Dealing With Stiffness or Fading

Hard water might cause stiffness or fading. Use a liquid laundry detergent, or add a water softener to your granular detergent to reduce the problem.

Dealing With Lint

Lint is likely caused by a mixed load of laundry that contains items that give off lint, such as terry cloth, napped velour, or corduroy. Other possible culprits include facial tissues left in pockets, a clogged washer lint trap, or a full dryer lint screen. Pick off the biggest pieces of lint or shredded tissue before putting clothes in the dryer. Remove the garments while they’re still damp and shake off any lint that you can. Use a clothes brush or lint roller to remove any remaining debris.

Help prevent future lint with these steps: Check all pockets for tissues and other debris before putting garments into the washer. Wash lint-producing items separately or only with like fabrics. Clean the washer lint trap at least four times a year. (Look in the owner’s manual to find the lint trap location, or look along the top rim of the tub). Clean the dryer lint screen after every load.

Dealing With Pilling

Pilling is caused by wear and is a characteristic of some synthetic and permanent-press fabrics. If necessary, use a lint brush or roller with masking tape to remove pills. Adding a fabric softener in the washer or dryer might also help. When ironing, use a spray starch or fabric finish on collars and cuffs, using a medium setting to avoid scorching delicate synthetic fabrics.

Dealing With Shrinking

Shrinking can’t be reversed, so avoid the problem by following care instructions on labels. Shrinking is less likely if you reduce the drying time and remove garments when they are slightly damp—which is especially important for cotton knits.

Tips for Using Detergent

Finding the right amount of detergent can be tricky. Too much detergent creates as much of a problem as too little. To determine the proper amount of detergent, start with the product’s recommended quantity. If it leaves a residue or creates too many suds, test for the right amount in subsequent loads: Reduce the detergent you add to a load of laundry in increments until you find the appropriate measure for your clothing type, load size, and cleaning needs. Mark the detergent measuring cup with the appropriate level. Mark individual lines or several measuring cups for different kinds of loads.

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Backpacks have transformed from simply a hiker’s necessity to both a fashion statement and necessity for almost everyone from preschoolers to adults. Whether you carry camping equipment, gym clothes, or school supplies, eventually the backpack is going to need to be cleaned. Learn how to wash and disinfect a backpack to keep it clean and smelling fresh and so it will last as long as possible. Use these same tips when washing gym bags, too!

How to Wash and Dry a Backpack

The first step in cleaning any type of backpack is to empty everything out of all the pockets. You’ll be amazed at what you find. Leave every pocket unzipped or unfastened and turned inside out, if possible. Look for any tags that offer washing instructions. Most fabric backpacks can either be washed by hand or machine washed. Leather or leather trimmed backpacks should be cleaned following the instructions for cleaning leather jackets, shoes and hats.

Take off any added clip-on accessories, removable straps, or metal parts if possible. If the straps need cleaning, wash them by hand in a solution of heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent that contains enough enzymes to break apart soil so it can be flushed away (Tide or Persil) and warm water. Allow the straps to soak for 30 minutes to loosen soil and then use a soft bristled brush (an old toothbrush is great) to clean heavily stained areas. Rinse in cool water and allow to air dry. Do not place in a clothes dryer.

If the backpack has stains, use a soft brush dipped in a one part heavy-duty liquid detergent to one part water solution to scrub away any residue. Place the backpack in an old pillowcase or a large mesh laundry bag and wash in warm water in the washer’s gentle cycle using your regular laundry detergent.

When the cycle is finished, remove the backpack from the pillowcase or mesh bag. Use an old towel to wipe down the inside of the pack and each of the pockets. Allow the backpack to air dry by hanging it with the zippers and pockets open as much as possible. Do not place in a hot dryer or dry in direct sunlight which can damage some fabrics.

If washing by hand, use a large sink, plastic tub, or bathtub so the entire backpack can be submerged. Fill the tub with enough lukewarm water to cover the item and about one tablespoon of laundry detergent. Allow it to soak for fifteen minutes and then swish the backpack through the water to remove soil. Drain soapy water and rinse very well. Do not wring or twist the backpack because it can damage zippers and trim. Hang to air dry.

You should wash a backpack only once or twice per year if it has waterproofing. Too much washing and detergent can lessen the pack’s ability to repel water. There are waterproofing sprays that can be used to replenish lost coating. Be sure the backpack is clean and completely dry before using. Waterproofing is a great option for a new backpack because the coating will help repel soil and stains as well as water.

If the backpack says that it should not be washed, spot clean using a one to one detergent/water solution trying not to oversaturate the fabric. “Rinse” using a clean white cloth dipped in plain water. Blot until no detergent or soil is transferred. Air dry.

How to Disinfect a Backpack

Once in a while, a backpack needs some serious cleaning. This is especially important if gym clothes are left in the pack for several days. Athlete’s foot funguscan easily transfer from socks to other surfaces.

To disinfect a backpack or gym bag, skip the chlorine bleach which can damage fabric and choose instead a pine oil or phenolic disinfectant or a disinfectant wipe.

Pine oil disinfectants are effective in warm water. Brand names include Pine Sol, Spic-n-Span Pine, and Lysol Pine Action. To be effective, the product must contain at least 80 percent pine oil.

Phenolic disinfectants are also effective in warm water and will not harm fabrics. Lysol brand disinfectant is available in most areas.

To disinfect the inside of the backpack, mix a one-to-one solution of the disinfectant and warm water. Use a clean sponge or cloth to carefully wipe down the inside surfaces. Allow to air dry.

You can also add the disinfectant to wash water (follow label directions for the correct amount) when hand washing or machine washing.

 

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How to Wash Dog Sweaters and Clothes

How to Clean Fabric Dog Collars, Leashes, and Harnesses

 How to Clean Leather Dog Collars

How to Clean Pet Bedding

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First and foremost, shop around. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has many choices in places to go, shop around and find one that has the lowest prices. While many are very close in price, there can be vast differences. Of course, you won’t wanna get one that will be too far from your home or what you save will be eaten up by how much gas you spend to get your laundry there.

Find out the perks of the place you wash at and take advantage of them. Many Laundromats offer frequent user cards that give you free washes or dry time after so much spent. This can be a simple punch card or a points value card. Many laundromats also offer free soap.

Make your own detergents. There is no need to buy the small, one time use soaps sold at many Laundromats. Also, no need to haul heavy containers of soap that you bought. Simply make a large portion of soap and keep it in a 5 gallon bucket. When you head to the Laundromat, just take what you need in a small container. Making your own detergent is simple and allows you to only pay pennies per load. You can also make your own fabric softener.

During warmer months, take your clothes home to dry on the line if possible. Not only will they smell wonderful, but you will spend 30-40% less on doing your clothes.

Only wash full loads and pick the right size. When paying to do your laundry, it is very important to make sure each load is filled to capacity so you get the most bang for your buck. If you only have small loads, try to see if you can find a friend to go in with and share the cost.

Wash what you can by hand and dry on low temp at the Laundromat. This includes bras, delicates and some things that are labeled “Dry Clean Only”. Dry clean only is often not necessary with many items. These items often just require gentle care and low dry temps.

Keep a good eye on what actually needs to be washed and what just got thrown in the mix. Washing clothing that is not really that dirty or isn’t dirty at all will leave you spending money that you don’t need to.

Wear clothes more than one time to avoid having to wash them as frequently. Most clothing items (other than underclothes such as underwear) can be worn many times before it actually needs to be thrown in the washer. Wearing things more than once will ensure you spend less.

Use less soap. You may think you need a lot, but most laundry facilities have soft water, so you usually need to use less than if you were doing it at home. This could mean you are using more than twice the amount needed if you aren’t careful.

As a last ditch effort, consider getting rid of some of your clothing. If you own less, you will need to wash less.

 

Source: http://savedbygraceblog.com/tips-saving-money-laundromat/

It’s hard to find the perfect white tee, there’s no doubt about that — which is why it’s a real bummer when you realize your favorite shirt has seen better days. But before you toss or donate it, follow this advice from Carolyn Forte, director at the Good Housekeeping Institute Cleaning Lab, on how to use bleach to refresh faded clothes in the wash.

How to bleach clothes

1. Before using bleach on a garment, always check the care label. If it says “no bleach,” that means (you guessed it!) no bleach — not even all-fabric bleach is safe to use.

2. The first time you use bleach on an item, it’s best to do a spot test in a hidden location first (like the inside of a collar or cuff) to make sure it’s safe.

3. Once you’ve determined your item is safe, run your wash cycle as usual. If you’re using an all-fabric or oxygen bleach, like OxiClean Versatile Stain Remover($7, amazon.com), you can add it at the start of the cycle according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For liquid chlorine bleach, like Liquid Clorox Bleach ($7, amazon.com), add the amount instructed by the manufacturer through the machine’s detergent dispenser five minutes into the cycle.

4. Dry your item as normal.

How to Prevent White Clothes From Fading

1. Wash items after every one to two wears.

Even if you can’t see them, invisible body soils and perspiration can turn white fabrics yellow or gray over time. “You want to wash them out before they build up,” says Forte.

2. Attack stains as soon as possible.

Food spots like ketchup or coffee are a given, but things that you can’t see, like sweat marks, should be treated to prevent build-up too. To do this, rub a full-strength liquid enzyme detergent, like Tide Total Care Renewing Rain Scent Liquid Laundry Detergent ($20, amazon.com) on the underarm area, then let your shirt sit 15 minutes before throwing it into the wash.

3. Always separate white and colored clothes.

Sure, this seems obvious, but it really makes a difference, according to Forte: “This is a must!” When you do this, you can use a dye-grabbing cloth like Carbona Color Grabber($7, amazon.com) to attract loose dye in your load of whites and keep color from settling.

4. Pick a laundry detergent that contains bleach.

Or bleach alternatives. Forte says these products generally get whites whiter during the washing cycle. Another cleaner that you might want to try is a bluing agent, like Mrs. Stewart’s Bluing ($5, amazon.com) which make fabrics look blue-white instead of yellow-white.

5. Be exact when measuring cleaner.

“Overuse or underuse of detergent can leave fabrics gray and dingy,” explains Forte. That’s because suds cushion fabrics and dirt, so stains get trapped and don’t wash away like they should. Bottom line: just follow the instructions on your bottle.

6. Don’t overload your washing machine.

We know, when there’s space at the top it’s hard to resist throwing in a few more shirts, but Forte says you should resist: “Clothing needs to circulate to get clean.” If you fill your washtub to the top, there isn’t enough room for the detergent to interact with soils and give an optimal cleaning performance.

7. Use the hottest water safe for fabric.

“The hotter the water, the more germs you kill,” says Forte. Higher temperatures also remove more soil, which is what causes white items to fade over time. But to prevent shrinkage and damage to clothes, check the care label to see just how hot you can go.

8. Dry clothes according to the care label.

According to Forte, over-drying will make your wardrobe look more worn over time, so pick your setting according to the label. Another option? “Use the auto cycle so the dryer stops when it senses the clothing is dry, not just when the time is up,” Forte says.

9. Try out these no-stain faves.

The Cleaning Lab tested buzzy, “no-stain” fabrics and picked out these two winners. Water-based liquids like red wine and hot coffee rolled right off the Elizabeth & Clarke blouse’s ($60, unstainable.ec) viscose fabric. Old Navy’s Stay-White jeans ($40, oldnavy.gap.com) shed water-based spills like coffee, red wine, cola, and even soy sauce with ease.

10. Don’t forget to use these tricks on other white laundry.

That means crisp bed sheets and fluffy towels.

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Written by: Lauren Smith

Washing pillows and comforters sometimes falls to the end of the laundry list. But learning how to wash a down comforter and care for similar items—like feather pillows, sleeping bags, and jackets—is easy.

Raise your hand if washing pillows and comforters—especially down-filled items—gets overlooked. In fact, a lot of people even wonder “can you wash a down comforter?” Rest easy—if you have learned how to wash pillows or comforters, your know-how applies to down items.

Manufacturers usually offer cleaning suggestions for their down items. Most will recommend cleaning down items infrequently—typically every three to five years. Follow these steps to get the best results when washing and drying down comforters and pillows.

Washing Down Items

Always read and follow any specific instructions on the tag of the item you’ll be washing. Before you wash down items, check for worn stitching or holes, and repair with small fine stitches to avoid losing any down stuffing during the laundering process.

Comforters for full-, queen-, and king-size beds are probably too big for your home washer. Instead, use the large-capacity front-loading washing machines at a local laundromat. Down pillows may be small enough to launder in your washing machine at home. This is the more convenient choice, especially if you have a front-loading machine. If you have a top loader, however, you may want to use the laundromat’s front-loading machines. An agitator can be rough on delicate down items.

Before washing a down comforter or pillow, check for tough stains such as blood or urine. These stains are best treated with an enzymatic cleaner. Color-safe bleach can be used on stains caused by water or food. Pull the cover of the comforter or pillow away from the down while spot-treating stains to keep the cleaning product from damaging the down. Then launder.

Put a pair of clean canvas shoes (laces removed) or a sock stuffed with two tennis balls (secured with a knot) in the machine with the comforter or pillows. This addition will help keep the down from bunching and will gently agitate soil from the items being washed.

Use a gentle- or delicate-cycle setting and a minimal amount of mild laundry detergent with your load. Choose lukewarm water; hot or cold water can be hard on the down. Use an extra rinse cycle to ensure all soap is rinsed from the down. There are also specialty laundry detergents made specifically for washing sleeping bags, down comforters, and other down-filled items. You’ll find these detergents available online and at outdoor retailers.

Editor’s Tip: So you finished washing a down jacket or pillow… and it stinks. Don’t worry, you didn’t miss a step in learning how to wash a down comforter or how to wash a down jacket. Down bears a distinctive odor when wet. The odor will dissipate when the down dries.

How to Dry Down-Filled Items

After the wash is complete, load your comforter or pillows into a dryer large enough to give the items plenty of room to fluff. Add a pair of clean canvas shoes without laces or two tennis balls in a sock to help fluff the down and keep it evenly distributed.

Run the dryer on air fluff or the lowest temperature possible. Stop the dryer periodically and break up any lumps that are forming in the comforter or pillow. Also ensure that the down is not getting too warm as extreme heat can scorch the down. Expect the drying process to take three to four hours.

Make sure the down item is dry before taking it out of the dryer to avoid the formation of mildew. If the item is still slightly damp, lay it out on a clothesline or picnic table on a breezy warm day to get the down as dry as possible. Once you bring the comforter or pillow inside, leave the item out for a few weeks to ensure all moisture has evaporated. If you’re storing the comforter, wrap it in a cotton sheet.

 

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Learn the best ways to wash towels, as well tips for drying and folding towels like a pro. These easy care tips will help keep your towels softer and last longer.

Believe it or not, there is an actual right way to wash your towels. If you want them to last, that is. While you can get a towel clean by simply tossing it into the washing machine, these helpful tips will keep your towels looking and feeling like new even after several washes.

Wash Before Use
Wash and dry bath towels before using them for the first time. Most towels have silicone or other finishes that block absorbancy. Washing the towels removes these finishes and permits maximum absorbency.

Use Detergent and Vinegar
To set colors, wash colored towels with similar colors in warm water for the first several washings. Using about half the recommended amount of detergent, add 1/2 to 1 cup of white vinegar to the wash water. The vinegar helps set the colors and removes excess detergent residue.

Wash Often
Wash towels every three to four days. Use warm water and color-safe bleach (if needed) for colored towels. Use hot water and nonchlorine bleach (if needed) for white towels. White towels should be washed separately or with other white items to avoid subtle discoloration over time.

Give Them Their Own Load
Wash bath towels separately from clothing for sanitary reasons. Putting towels in their own load also makes it easier to adjust to the best settings for cleaning towels based on color.

Use Softener Sparingly
Use fabric softeners according to directions, but use only every three or four washes. Waxy buildup from softeners can deteriorate the towel fibers over time and reduce their absorbency.

Shake Them Out
Give your towels a shake when taking them out of the washer. This will help fluff the terry loops that aid absorbency. Don’t iron terry towels; this will reduce absorbency.

Dry Towels Carefully
Ensure that towels are dry when you remove them from the dryer. Even slightly damp towels can quickly mildew. Avoid overdrying; it can destroy the integrity of the individual cotton fibers.

Avoid Decorative Edges On Bath Towels
Many high-quality towels feature decorative trims to add a soft design element amid the hard, shiny surfaces of the bathroom. If possible, use towels with specialty trims as accents only, so you can limit their laundering and reduce the wear on ribbon, rickrack, lace, or other decorative elements.

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Pillows harbor dirt, dust, sweat, and plenty of other things you’d rather not think about, let alone sleep on. Learn how to clean pillows so you can rest assured you’ve a fresh place to lie your head.

Whether you’re swapping pillows out with every season or you find a style you like and stick to it, we all have pillows to clean. With kids, pets, and guests, just think of all the germs your pillows are harboring! They might be big, bulky, and unfamiliar to wash, but don’t be intimidated. With our how-to guide for how to clean pillows, you’ll know all the tips to make sure your pillows are washed, dried, and fluffed to perfection.

Machine Wash Your Pillows

Most down and synthetic pillows can be machine washed and dried on low heat, says Donna Smallin Kuper of Unclutter.com and author of Cleaning Plain and Simple. Check the label to be sure. Note that water needs to be 140 degrees or higher to kill dust mites, so make sure your water heater isn’t set too low. Consider an extra spin cycle to squeeze out as much dampness as possible.

Choose Laundry Soap Wisely

You want something that’s fragrance-free and will rinse clean, says Leslie Reichert, aka The Cleaning Coach. She recommends Better Life’s Spin Credible, Charlie’s, Rockin’ Green, or her great-grandma’s homemade laundry soap recipe: 2 cups soap flakes and 1 cup each baking soda, washing soda, and borax.

Dry Pillows Well

Make sure you dry pillows completely, as lingering dampness could reintroduce the very mildew, bacteria, and dust mites you’re trying to avoid. Dry on low, checking them every 20 to 30 minutes to ensure even drying. For extra fluff, dry with dryer balls or a tennis ball in a sock.

Don’t Overload the Machine

You’ll want to wash and dry at least two pillows at a time to keep your machine balanced, but take care not to stuff too many in at once. Pillows need plenty of water to get thoroughly clean, and plenty of space to get thoroughly dry.

Vacuum Foam Pillows

Foam pillows shouldn’t be washed, Reichert says. She recommends sprinkling them with cornstarch, letting sit for an hour or longer, then vacuuming thoroughly instead.

Freshen Pillows in the Dryer

Put your pillows in the dryer on “air fluff” every few months, to get rid of much of the dust. Include a vinegar-dampened washcloth, says Mary Findley of GoClean.com, a former pro cleaner and author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Green Cleaning, since vinegar is so good at killing mold and mildew.

Use Pillow Protectors

Removable pillow protectors buy you more time between full-on pillow cleaning. “I remove and machine-wash my protectors in hot water once a month,” Smallin Kuper says.

Take advantage of Rainbow Laundry’s large capacity washing machines to keep all of your pillows clean and germ free. Our driers can handle even the fluffiest of pillows. Depending on the material remember to dry thoroughly and on a low heat setting.

 

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By: Berit Thorkelson

DON’T wait.
The longer you let the stain set, the harder your job will be. Act quickly to save time later and improve your chances at total removal.

DON’T rub upholstery, carpet, and fabrics.
You’ll not only drive the stain further in, you could wear away the material and possibly even create enough heat to chemically bond the stain to the surface, says Matthew Ricketts, president of Better Life Maids. Instead, blot. Always blot.

DON’T vigorously scrub hard surfaces.
“At least once a week I have a new client show me damage that a previous house cleaner did because they used steel wool, hard brushes, or sponges that weren’t nonscratch,” says Amanda Thomas, Moxie Girl Household Assistants founder and Domestic CEO podcast host. Surfaces like stainless steel, marble, wood, and most stove tops are delicate, she says. “If the stain doesn’t come off with a towel or nonscratch sponge and light rubbing, try loosening it by soaking it with cleaner — or even water — and letting it set.”

DON’T start at the center.
You’ll risk spreading the stain. Always wipe or blot from the outside of the stain, and work your way in.

DON’T skip straight to the harsh stuff.

You’ll risk damaging the very material you’re treating, not to mention potentially introducing harsh chemicals into your home. A mild detergent, combined with water and a clean towel, will remove the bulk of stains, especially if treated immediately.

DON’T default to heat.

Hot water could change the stain’s structure in a way that bonds it to the surface. This is especially true for protein and food-related stains on soft surfaces, such as fabric or carpet, Thomas says. Acids such as vinegar work to “cook” proteins, too. Use cool or lukewarm water and an enzymatic stain remover instead.

DON’T skip directions.

It’s not always as simple as spraying, then wiping or washing. You could be wasting good cleaner and prime stain-cleaning time doing something ineffective, or, worst-case scenario, causing further damage. Head off such headaches by simply taking a few moments to scan for special treatments or cautions.

DON’T forget to test your cleaner.

You risk damaging the surface, such as dulling finishes or fading carpet, upholstery, and other fabric dyes. “You’d be surprised. Many cleaning products can make stains look worse,” Thomas says. Always take the time to test it in an inconspicuous place first, she says. If you like what you see, proceed to the stain with caution.

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Did you know there is more to sorting laundry than just separating lights and darks? There are actually a few other levels of laundry wrangling. If there are only one or two people in a household, it may be difficult to get granular in your laundry separation without wasting water and energy. In that case, just separate as much as make sense.

Whenever it’s possible, try to keep these items separate.

 

Lint Producing Items

• Towels
• Chenille
• Sweat Shirts
• Fleece
• Felt
• Sweaters
• Many Brand New Clothing Articles*

Lint Collecting Items

• Synthetic Fabrics
• Corduroy
• Knits

*New items should be washed separately at least twice to shed lint and to ensure they no longer bleed dye.

More ways to keep lint in check:

Always, always, always check pockets for stray tissue and paper. Once paper shreds in the washer or dryer, it’s going to take a couple loads to get rid of the damage. If you have a high efficiency machine, check the drain filter and make sure it’s not clogged with the remnants.

Make sure you are using the proper amount of detergent for the size of your load and the hardness of your water. Detergent molecules surround dirt and lint and suspend the particles in the wash water. If there isn’t enough detergent to keep the particles in suspension they will be deposited on your clothing. Have you ever rinsed a clothing item in a white sink and seen the grey stuff that clings to the porcelain and has to be rinsed away? It’s the same concept, only the stuff is landing back on your clothing. With white garments, this is often the source of the “dingy” grey look.

If you have very cold ground water where you live, if the water is less than 60°F, don’t use powdered detergent. Temperature is a big factor in solubility and water that cold may not dissolve all of the detergent. There are work arounds, you could pre-dissolve your detergent in a cup of hot water, but that’s really starting to sound like a lot of effort.

Front loading and high efficiency washer owners, pay attention:

It is imperative to not overload your clothes washer. If the clothing can’t tumble freely, water can’t flow very well and lint will be deposited back onto the fabric during the wash cycle. This is not your washer’s fault, it is what we call operator error.

 

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If you’re a university student, hopefully your school accommodations are near a quality laundromat like Rainbow Laundry in San Jose. This way as a student you can quickly and easily take care of your laundry needs.

If you are new to doing your own laundry, there are few things you might like to know to help make your laundromat experience a pleasant one.

One of the selections that you may find on the commercial washers at your laundromat is the pre-set wash cycle. This is basically the automatic version for putting your clothes through the proper cycles. Pay attention to the spin cycle, which may give you a choice between a fast or slow spin. The fast is a good choice when you are using warm water for washing, as you would for your colored clothing, or the hot water, as you would for your whites. For wool or delicate items choose the slow spin cycle, as this is less aggressive on items which lose some of their strength when wet.

Make sure to find out what materials the majority of your clothes are made of. This will help you to be cautious so you won’t shrink your favorite items. Possible shrinkage can occur with natural fiber clothing like cotton, wool, or hemp, but should not be a problem with synthetic fibers.

Be careful not to over-wash or over-dry items that are made with materials that have some elasticity to them, as this can stretch the clothing out of its natural shape and make it look old and worn.

Don’t forget to check all of your pockets before putting the clothes into the washing machine! As a student some common items that may be left in your pockets are pens, your keys, or even a USB stick. You don’t want to have a pen burst during the wash cycle or losing the data from a damaged USB stick.

No doubt you have a busy schedule as a university student. You may pop your clothes into the washer and dash out to run a few errands. Just make sure you make it back by the time your clothes are done. This way, you can take them out and free up the machine for the next person. Using your local laundromat will make laundry day a breeze!

 

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From cotton to silk, the fabrics in your wardrobe need specific care. Learn How to take care of your Fabrics helping you keep your clothing looking new.

Your clothing is an investment. Knowing how to properly care for the different types of fabric in your wardrobe can help keep clothing looking its best and lengthen its life. Follow these tips to learn how to launder, dry, and iron common garment fabrics. Always read the garment’s sewn-in care label before proceeding.

Common Fabrics & Their Care

Acetate: While most items made of acetate are dry-clean only, some may be hand-washed in lukewarm water. Do not twist the fabric. Iron while the fabric is damp. Press the inside of the garment using a low-temperature setting. Use a pressing cloth when ironing the outside.

Acrylic knit: Most acrylic knit garments can be machine-washed. Read the label, and check for the proper drying option. Some knits retain their shapes best if reshaped and dried flat.

Cashmere: Check the care label before laundering cashmere. To hand-wash, use a mild detergent or shampoo. Gently squeeze the water through the garment, then rinse until the water runs clear. Do not wring or twist. Squeeze out excess water. To dry, lay flat on a towel, away from sunlight or heat. 

Cotton: Cotton holds up well to home laundering. Remove the garment from the dryer promptly to reduce wrinkling. Press using spray starch for the crispness of a laundered shirt.

Cotton blend: Dry cotton-blend garments using your dryer’s permanent-press or low-heat cycle, and remove immediately to reduce wrinkling. Touch up with a steam iron; starch for a professionally laundered look.

Linen: Most linen garments need to be dry-cleaned or hand-washed. Follow the instructions on the care label. To touch up or press, use a steam iron on a linen setting for a crisp look.

Nylon: Machine-wash nylon garments in warm water. Use a low-temperature setting when tumble-drying, and include a dryer sheet to reduce static electricity. Use a warm iron to press, if necessary.

Polyester: Read the label. Usually polyester items can be machine-washed (cool) and dried (low). Check the label to see if air-drying is recommended. Touch up with a cool — never hot — iron, if necessary.

Rayon: Make sure to read the care label for rayon clothing. Launder in cool water and a mild detergent. When machine-washing, use the gentle cycle and promptly remove garments after washing. When hand-washing, do not wring or twist the garment. To dry, roll the item in a towel to squeeze out excess water. Lay flat to dry. Iron when still damp and with the garment inside out to prevent the fabric from becoming shiny. Use a pressing cloth when ironing the right side of the garment. Pressing cloths can be purchased, or use something as simple as a piece of white cotton fabric.

Silk: Dry cleaning may be required. Some silks are hand- or machine-washable. Do not dry silk in a clothes dryer. Garments usually look best when professionally dry-cleaned.

Spandex: Use warm water when hand- or machine-washing items made with spandex. Line-dry or use a low temperature setting when machine-drying to preserve the elasticity of the garment.

Wool knit: Typically wool knits need to be dry-cleaned, but check the label. If hand-washable, use cool water and a detergent for fine washables. Squeeze out excess water, then reshape and dry flat.

Wool (lined): Lined garments generally look best when professionally dry-cleaned once a season. Between dry cleanings, remove surface soil with a brush or damp cloth. Refresh the item by hanging it from a padded hanger in a steamy bathroom; moisture will help garment shed wrinkles. When touching up with an iron, use steam in an up-and-down motion (rather than sliding the iron along the fabric).

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To Dry or Not to Dry

As general rule of thumb, clothing items laundered in a permanent-press or regular cycle in the washing machine can also be dried in the clothes dryer. But it’s always best to check the clothing care label. When in doubt, air-dry. This option saves money on fuel bills, extends the longevity of clothes, and reduces concerns about ruining certain clothing.

Preparing Clothes for the Dryer

Give just-washed clothes a glance and a shake. Glance at them to see if the washing machine did its part in removing stains. If stains remain, take another shot at treating them. If a stained garment goes into the dryer, the stain will likely become permanent. Shake out garments or linens before putting them in the dryer to remove hidden items (such as socks), help items dry faster, and help reduce wrinkles.

Sorting your clothes actually begins before the wash cycle. Separate wash loads by texture (which produce lint, which attract it), fabric (put clothing items of similar materials together), soil (separate heavily soiled from lightly soiled), and color (whites, lights, darks, items that bleed). This will serve you well as you sort clothes for drying. But in a nutshell, separate clothes for drying by weight. Mixing heavier items with lighter items might mean one comes out overdried and the other still damp.

Avoiding Overloading Issues

You might think you’re saving time and energy by packing as much into your dryer as possible. In reality, the clothes will take longer to dry and will likely come out looking much like they did when they were first stuffed in — wrinkled and misshapen. Keep the dryer load small enough to tumble easily and freely in the dryer drum. It’s also helpful to readjust large loads, such as sheets and blankets, during their cycle so they dry faster and more evenly.

Getting the Best Results
Always check the clothing care label to make sure you’re doing what’s best for the fabric. If no care label exists, follow these suggestions.

• If you can wash your clothes in hot water, they can often be dried on a hot setting, as well. Cotton bath towels, for example, can be dried in a regular hot setting. Six bath towels weighing 5 pounds will dry in 40-50 minutes.
• Items that need to be washed in cooler water probably should be dried in a permanent-press setting. That setting includes a cool-down cycle at the end of the heated drying process to help prevent wrinkles. A permanent-press load of 12 items — slacks, shirts, shorts, and dresses — also weighing 5 pounds will dry in 30-40 minutes. As the load size increases, so does drying time.
  Set your dryer to “delicates” if the care labels on lingerie and other delicate items say they can go in the dryer.
• If machine-dryable, garments made of Lycra, nylon, acrylic, polyester, viscose, or spandex should either be air-dried or machine-dried at a low temperature.
• To maximize your dryer’s ability to do its job, clean the lint filter after every load. Occasionally, check the outside vent opening to make sure it’s free of any outdoor debris, such as dirt and leaves.
• Don’t overdry. Overdrying certain clothing items, such as cotton shirts, can be hard on them and lead to shrinkage. It’s best to remove cotton garments while they’re damp, hang them up, and let them finish air-drying on a clothes rack.
• Allow any item that you remove from the dryer while it is still damp to dry out completely before putting it away. This will help prevent mildew from growing in areas with poor air circulation, such as closets and drawers.
• Immediately remove clothing from the dryer when the cycle is finished to help avoid wrinkles. When that ideal scenario isn’t possible, run the dryer another 10-15 minutes, then remove the clothing promptly to lessen the problem.

Benefits of Air-Drying
Consider the benefits of air-drying clothing rather than using a clothes dryer.

• Air-drying uses less energy, which saves money and makes less of an impact on the environment.
• Air-drying prevents static cling.
• Air-drying outside on a clothesline adds a fresh, clean smell.
• Air-drying extends the lifetime of clothing by reducing wear and tear in the dryer.

Hanging Laundry on a Clothesline

Whether you air-dry clothes from a clothesline inside or outside, each type of item should be hung in a particular way so it ends up looking its best.

Pants: Match the inner leg seams of pants, and clothespin the hems of the legs to the line, with the waist hanging down.

Shirts and tops: Shirts and tops should be pinned to the line from the bottom hem at the side seams.

Socks: Hang socks in pairs, pinning by the toes and letting the top opening hang down.

Bed linens: Fold sheets or blankets in half and pin each end to the line. Leave room between the items, if possible, for maximum drying.

Air-Drying Clothing Inside

• Hang clothes from a rod or lay them flat on a drying rack when air-drying garments inside the home.
• Keep garments separated to allow air circulation and faster drying.
• Place clothes near a fan or a heat vent to air-dry more quickly.
• Lay sweaters and other stretchy garments flat on a drying rack to help retain their shapes; turn them at least once to help them dry evenly.
• Hang fleece garments from a rod to dry.
• Reshape any foam or batting in bra cups before draping bras over a clothing rack to air-dry.
• Air-dry camisoles on hangers; use clothespins if the garments seem in danger of slipping off.
• Pin panties and slips to hangers by the waistbands, or hang them over a drying rack to air-dry.

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The information contained within this website is provided for informational purposes only.

Even with wash-and-wear fabrics, freshly ironed clothing displays success and confidence. Using the best techniques for garment pressing makes creating a good impression easy. Proper pressing also extends the life of your garments. Before you begin, always take note of the tag on your clothing to ensure your iron is set to the correct temperature. Follow our easy step-by-step instructions for success in ironing shirts, pants, dresses, and skirts.

Cuffs and collars don’t need to intimidate you. Approach pressing shirts with these easy steps and you’ll be finished in no time — with results that show!

Step 1
Iron the underside of the shirt collar, starting at the center and working out toward the edges, then back toward the center.

Step 2
Work on the back shoulder yoke, draping one side of the yoke over the narrow end of your ironing board. Work the iron from the shoulder toward the center of the back. Then iron the other shoulder using the same technique.

Step 3
Iron the inside of the cuffs of conventional shirts. For French cuffs, use a sleeve board or roll up a towel, insert it in the cuff, and iron directly on top of the cuff.

Step 4
Iron the sleeves, working from the cuff toward the shoulder. Iron the outside of the sleeve, then the inside. Repeat on the other sleeve.

Step 5
Tackle the shirt’s front panels, ironing one front panel at a time. Press the back from the center to the bottom hem.

Step 6
The final touch is to re-press the collar top.

Editor’s Tip: After you iron a shirt, place it on a hanger and set it aside to cool. A warm shirt creases when you put it on. A cool shirt is more likely to keep its fresh, crisp look.

How to Iron Pants

Pressing slacks and pants, with a crease or without, gives your outfit a boost of style. Follow these steps to get the look you want to show the world.

Step 1
Begin by turning your slacks inside out and ironing the pockets. If they are not attached to the body of the pants, lay the pocket on the ironing board to iron. If the pockets are attached to the side seam, pull the pant top over the narrow end of the ironing board and iron the pocket flat.

Step 2
Turn the pants right side out and iron carefully around the waist and top by draping the top of the slacks over the narrow end of the board and working around the waist. Iron lightly over pockets to prevent pocket lines from showing.

Step 3
Lay the pants flat on the ironing board, one leg on top of the other. Align inseams with outer seams. Fold back the top leg and iron the inside of the bottom leg. Flip and repeat to iron the other side.

Step 4
For a center crease in your slacks, simply align the inseam and outer seam, and lay the slacks on your board. Press the front side of each leg, using a burst of steam set the crease.

Editor’s Tip: Avoid a shiny look when pressing dark or wool fabrics. Use a press cloth or clean cotton dish towel to press your garments.

How to Iron Skirts & Dresses

Skirts seem simple enough to press, but the complications of pleats, ruffles, or gathers can make it more challenging than you expect. Dresses might have both the collars and cuffs of shirts and the ruffles and gathers of skirts. Both are easy to press to stylish finishes with these steps.

Step 1
For dresses with sleeves and collars, begin by following the directions for ironing a shirt: collar, yoke, cuffs, and sleeves, then the top side of collar.

Step 2
For the skirt, start at the bottom and work your way toward the waist.

For skirts with gathers and ruffles, iron the inside surface of the skirt, beginning at the hemline and moving toward the center. For pleats, start at the bottom of the inside of the pleat, then move to the outside of the pleat. A burst of steam can help set the pleat.

Step 3
If the garment has delicate buttons, iron around them or protect them with the bowl of a spoon. If the garment features embroidered designs, lay it embroidered side down on a terry cloth towel or pressing cloth and press with a burst of steam from the other side.

Editor’s Tip: Skirts and dresses made of delicate fabrics are more likely to scorch or be marred by steam. Check the label before setting the iron, and test in an inconspicuous area to ensure good results.

 

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The information contained within this website is provided for informational purposes only.

Nowadays, clothing is more expensive than ever and depending on the item, there are special instructions on how they are supposed to be cleaned. If you choose to do your laundry at the local Laundromat, you would be surprised at how much more pain free the whole laundry process can become. Many people who hated doing laundry in the past that now utilize a Laundromat find the experience to be somewhat relaxing. At a Laundromat, once you have loaded all of your clothes into the washer or dryer, you then have time to sit down and relax. In the past, if you enjoyed reading, it actually gave you some time to indulge in a good book while you waited.

Today, a good book has been replaced with a cell phone, laptop or some other electronic device. Many Laundromats provide WiFi service, so you can access the Internet from their location for free. This allows people to catch up on some emails, maybe even play some games online, or touch base with a friend or two. Before you know it, your clothes are clean and ready to go. Even though it may seem like a bit of work to do all of your laundry at one time, once you are done, you’re done.

It is easy to stay on top of your laundry when you do it at a Laundromat and most of the newer facilities even offer a cleaning service if you don’t have the time to do it yourself. They will be cleaned to your satisfaction, folded and ready to go, saving you a great deal of time. In order for a young couple to get ahead today, it takes both people working full time jobs and there is little time left at the end of the day for something like the laundry.

When you actually compare the cost of doing your laundry at home rather than at a laundromat you would be surprised at how much you can save in the long run by using Laundromats. First off, to do it at home, you have to buy a washer and dryer. Then you have to consider the electricity charges as well which can add up pretty quickly. Depending on where you live, prices can be costly. Saving energy is also good for the environment. When you break all the costs down, not to mention the amount of time you are going to save, you quickly realize that a Laundromat is a great option.

Laundromats have the most efficient machines that offer a wide range of cleaning options, making it easier to clean your clothes properly which helps them last longer. If you buy quality clothing and clean them the way you should, your clothes will be more comfortable and look better for many months to come. All in all, using a Laundromat compared to doing it at home is already the chosen way for many families and individuals alike. Once you try it, you will find out why so many people are making this choice. For a great laundry day experience be sure to find a stop by Rainbow Laundry in San Jose.

 

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Written by:  Bob Schwartz

Carting your wardrobe out of your house on laundry day isn’t exactly fun. But with our rules, the chore will certainly become a bit easier.

1. Check the machine before you load in your clothes.
Remove any items that the person before you left behind. An extra sock isn’t a big deal, but a rogue tube of lipstick could ruin your favorite blouse.

2. Sniff for leftover bleach.
If the previous patron used bleach in her load, you’ll know by smelling the bleach dispenser or cup. This two-second move could save your dark clothes.

3. Dispel any odors.
Mildew and grime are common in laundromat washers, and since so many people use them, you never know what your clothes might smell like at the end of the rinse cycle. Add distilled white vinegar to a Downy ball and toss it in with your load. It will help eliminate residual stink from others’ washes (and any odors in your clothes, too.)

4. Try detergent pods.
Stop lugging that heavy bottle. Tote a few pods in your purse to make the job much easier on your back.

5. Leave a basket behind.
We’re sure you’re monitoring your machine diligently (right?). But if your coffee run takes longer than expected, it’s polite (and shrewd) to leave a place for the next person in line to drop your clothes.

6. Empty the dryer’s lint trap.
Be the person who (finally) cleans out the lint, and the machine won’t have to work as hard to dry your clothes. No more dropping in yet another quarter waiting for your ever-damp towels to fully dry.

7. Shake out your clothes.
Fluff and fold your items right after you take them out of the dryer. If you don’t, wrinkles will set into them on the way home.

 

 

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